I started with a pre-assembled kit, with a plastic bucket fermentor, collapsable bottling container, "Emily" capper, hydrometer, thermometer, stirring paddle and ingredients. I used a ceramic coated steel canner as the boiling pot. Since then, I have gradually added equipment and gadgets and will discuss the merits of each:
7.5 gallon stainless steel pot and outdoor propane burner
I would suggest this be the first major addition for the homebrewer.
A "full wort" boil will maximize hop utilization and ensure wort sterilization. It also takes the brewing operation and aromas out of the kitchen. Consider having a spigot installed on the brewpot for convenience. 7 gallons is about the minimum volume to accomodate foaming and evaporative loss. For a one hour boil, I start with 6 gallons of wort.
Wort chiller
Cooling a full wort boil quickly requires a wort chiller.
(Except for those in snow country, who can just stick the pot in a snowbank) It takes around 20 - 30 minutes to cool 5 gallons of wort to pitching temperature. Pitching yeast quickly is important to avoid contamination, and a wort chiller reduces worry.
7 gallon glass carboy
I still use my original bucket fermentor as my bottling bucket, although I have added another spigot as low as possible in the bucket to reduce waste and make bottling easier. Fermenting in glass eliminates concern that leftover flavors absorbed by plastic will affect the beer. Plus, it's fun to see how fermentation is coming along.
5 gallon glass carboy
"Secondary fermentation" is optional for most beers, but I find that transferring my fermented beer to a 5 gallon carboy and letting it sit for a couple weeks to a couple months greatly reduces the amount of sediment in the bottles and increases flexibility in bottling time.
Beer refrigerator with external thermostat
Having a dedicated beer refrigerator gives precise control over fermentation temperature. Warm fermentation temperatures will produce unwanted flavors and "fermentation byproducts" in the beer. A beer fridge also allows for lager brewing in warm weather. Temperature control over fermentation and storage has resulted in the most significant improvement in my homebrew.
7.5 gallon stainless steel pot and outdoor propane burner
I would suggest this be the first major addition for the homebrewer.
A "full wort" boil will maximize hop utilization and ensure wort sterilization. It also takes the brewing operation and aromas out of the kitchen. Consider having a spigot installed on the brewpot for convenience. 7 gallons is about the minimum volume to accomodate foaming and evaporative loss. For a one hour boil, I start with 6 gallons of wort.Wort chiller
Cooling a full wort boil quickly requires a wort chiller.
(Except for those in snow country, who can just stick the pot in a snowbank) It takes around 20 - 30 minutes to cool 5 gallons of wort to pitching temperature. Pitching yeast quickly is important to avoid contamination, and a wort chiller reduces worry.
7 gallon glass carboy
I still use my original bucket fermentor as my bottling bucket, although I have added another spigot as low as possible in the bucket to reduce waste and make bottling easier. Fermenting in glass eliminates concern that leftover flavors absorbed by plastic will affect the beer. Plus, it's fun to see how fermentation is coming along.
5 gallon glass carboy
"Secondary fermentation" is optional for most beers, but I find that transferring my fermented beer to a 5 gallon carboy and letting it sit for a couple weeks to a couple months greatly reduces the amount of sediment in the bottles and increases flexibility in bottling time.
Beer refrigerator with external thermostat
Having a dedicated beer refrigerator gives precise control over fermentation temperature. Warm fermentation temperatures will produce unwanted flavors and "fermentation byproducts" in the beer. A beer fridge also allows for lager brewing in warm weather. Temperature control over fermentation and storage has resulted in the most significant improvement in my homebrew.
Kegging
I have experimented with 5 gallon stainless steel soda syrup kegs and a CO2 dispensing system. Carbonation is a bit tricky and I have had problems getting the kegs to seal properly, but it certainly saves time compared to bottling. Right now I am no longer kegging because that would require another refrigerator to achieve carbonation and drinking temperature, which is lower than fermentation temperature.
I have experimented with 5 gallon stainless steel soda syrup kegs and a CO2 dispensing system. Carbonation is a bit tricky and I have had problems getting the kegs to seal properly, but it certainly saves time compared to bottling. Right now I am no longer kegging because that would require another refrigerator to achieve carbonation and drinking temperature, which is lower than fermentation temperature.
1 comment:
My god, mate! You are 90% all grain capable already. Get a 5 gallon Igloo for the sparge water, Batch sparge and use a 10 gallon Igloo for the mash tun.
Investment will be equal to your propane burner and your wort chiller. Take the leap and just do it!
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